What We Do When the Surf is Small

It’s generally a bad day for a surfer when it’s small. Small surf is a disease that many east coasters are sick with for a lot of the year and many Southern California surfers are plagued with way too often.  When its small we can’t get barreled, can’t drive down the line, can’t ride our favorite short board. It’s almost like we can’t have a good time. This is something that I believed for a number of years to be true until it dawned on me. The small days are when the random fun things happen. When you surf in a blazer, shape your own alaia, ride a funky board, or try doing step offs with a canoe. I never would have tried any of these things if the surf had been bigger. No, I would have been surfing my short board and just doing the same thing that I normally do. And then I realized that I had discovered the cure to being bored with small waves. Just try something new/random/funny.  In the end your experience will be just as entertaining as it is on a bigger day. Appreciate the small days and try to have an interesting experience.

The surf is pretty laid back in I.B. So is Jake Stutz...

Just because its small doesn't mean you can't have a good session. Daniel Dedina taking advantage of the absence of a crowd.